Operation NOM: Revenge of the Food Spies

by The Ninja on July 29, 2010

I am accused of being a Food Spy. At least according to one very reputable current affairs program, all food bloggers are guilty of culinary espionage, and should thus be summarily hung then drawn then sewn into Matt Preston’s pants. “Will Shinobi Valley release an official statement?” Not just yet; response from our team will be released in due course. But all must agree that threat of Food Spies is grave indeed: not only a threat to entire food industry but also to ninja families worldwide (dangerous source of competition for business). In fact, scouts recently uncovered Food Spy plot to take over one of Sydney’s restaurants. Took the mission myself and reserved a place amongst the Spies’ comrades in order to observe their machinations, then expose and defame in order to safeguard Shinobi Valley’s reputation. “War is won before the first spear is thrown” – Sun Tzu. A bloodless takedown would be optimal here.

Of course, things never turn out as planned. The four Spies involved turn out to be very well-trained, highly charismatic, and extremely good at what they do. This report will hereforth profile each of these four Spies, with intent to highlight potential weaknesses and demonstrate the calibre of our new enemy. My personal recommendation is for immediate liquidation with extreme prejudice. The time to act is now.

-REPORT BEGINS-

The Elusive Man

Known only as “The Food Blog”, the Elusive Man has so far evaded repeated liquidation attempts on his person, and is believed to be in charge of the operation covered in this report. He is suspected to have connections to various paramilitary organisations and is reputed to be funnier than even the author of this report (despite no known instances of cross-dressing). Chooses a Shish Barak, “Middle Eastern style dumpling” adapted with the use of gyoza skin rather than traditional Lebanese dough. Tastes exotic, familiar, svelte, traditional: all at once. Like the man himself, Shish Barak is a triple-bundle of contradictions, an conundrum wrapped in an enigma wrapped in sensual deep-fried gyoza pastry. Might the operations man of the Food Spies ever come in from the cold? According to several reports, the Elusive Man is not of Asian descent, and might thus be outed as a heretic amongst his brethren: this could in fact be useful leverage for a bloodless neutralisation of the conflict.

The Infiltrator

He may look smiley and jovial, but the Infiltrator (code-name “A Table For Two”) is a colossal force not to be underestimated. Already notorious for his expertise with photographic espionage (the Shooter has so far declined a duel), he takes to the kitchen like a duck to Heston Blumenthal’s kitchen: with disturbingly delicious results. Weapon of choice tonight is Twice-Cooked Pork Belly, resplendent in beetroot sauce with a splash of apple foam. Pork crackling turns out to lack characteristic crackle but Infiltrator pre-empts this and duly apologises to crowd before I can deploy defamatory tools. Tried to fault other aspects of dish – the creamy pork fat, apple foam injected with a thousand pinpricks of delectable electricity, colour scheme of beetroot – but was unable to find any other weakness. Do not let Infiltrator’s penchant for sexual innuendo and boyish charm fool you. Only attempt liquidation with at least two teams as back-up.

The Charismatic

Very well-liked and amiable, making liquidation highly problematic in terms of collateral to Shinobi Valley’s reputation should involvement be discovered. Homely code-name of “Citrus and Candy” belies highly honed combat skills which can be deployed with brutal precision at a moment’s notice. Weapon of choice, Beef Cheeks in PX Sherry, is deceptively plain but fills the stomach and warms the senses with its reams of faty veins, slickly cleansing cauliflower purée and general meaty goodness. Highly effective “Comfort Food” which can easily melt the defences of even a battle-hardened ninja. However, Charismatic eats lots of cakes and sweets, providing a potential avenue for poisons like karaage. Liquidate from long range.

The Closer

If the Charismatic lowers one’s defences, the Closer (code-name “Linda”) is the one to finish off the target. Diminuitive in stature, humble in address, and unstoppable both in a team and as a lone agent. Elegant custom-weapon known as “This and That”, a two-part package made up of Lemon Olive-Oil Ice Cream and Chocolate Cake w/Chocolate Brûlée and Salt; ice-cream slides across the palate with a tangy-metallic sheen of an aftertaste, before chocolate cake heralds a full sensory assault of gooey chocolate and crackling brûlée and the merest zing of saltiness. Very, very effective. By herself, Closer is formidable; when operating with three other Food Spies, liquidation is virtually impossible.

Finally, a quick shout-out to Yas for defecting to Team Shinobi with his iPad light.

-REPORT ENDS-

The Food Bloggers’ Dinner was hosted by Merivale at their soon-to-be-closed Bistro CBD. The Ninja was not a guest of Merivale, and doubts he ever will be.

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Pendolino

by The Ninja on July 22, 2010

Dark, unnaturally so. Voluminous shadows punctuated by twitches of candlelight, wan sprites trapped in their holders. Perfect for ninjas, ugly people (not necessarily mutually exclusive) and other denizens of the night. Pendolino definitely an Italian-sounding moniker; aren’t Italians meant to be sexy, not ugly? The perfect man is Italian…

Restaurant is wedged up the top of Strand Arcade, needs antique lift or stair-climb or aerial drop to access. Classy-looking despite derision for any light source more than a single point: the crowds seem to approve. Businesspeople, private-school families, Asians, food bloggers (not necessarily mutually exclusive), all in the one space. Like a cross-section of Sydney if you take that cross-section between Rose Bay and Double Bay. Cut and paste Chinatown too, since racial homogeneity once again out of fashion according to recent reports from ninja scouts.

Pendolino more well-known for its olive oils than its restaurant (hard act to follow, given burgeoning reputation of Strand establishment in food media circles). Tasting-platter of oils with complimentary bread always a good start to any restaurant, also provides excellent recourse if meal portions turn out to be subpar. Fruttato not fruity despite misleading name; actually refers to olives pressurised while young, somewhat like stereotypical Asian child. Shooter holds that Limone and Sanguinella taste the same, but slight overtone of bitterness and spice to the blood-orange blend makes me think otherwise. Can buy the oil from the restaurant in bottles, but not – as our team hoped – in shots.

More little Asian-children beans in the Carpaccio, adding to racial diversity of dish. Pendolino’s interpretation becomes a multicultural mélange full of symbolic vibrance uniting under the gridlines of social conformity represented by thin breadsticks. Gridlines of social conformity apparently rather easy to break and also quite tasty. Carpaccio itself smooth and glossy but tends to stick in clumps and a bit lacking in flavour. No society is perfect.

Order Pasta with Long Name because menu states it contains both pork belly and pork crackling. Expecting belly and crackling à la Lowenbrau or Bavarian Bier, because how else do you cook the two? Turns out pork crackling is à la bacon (although no complaints there, strip ends up tasting like fried and crisped proscuitto) but what about pork belly? Tastes like bah kut teh! Once more for emphasis: bah kut teh (with informational link for the unfashionably uninformed)! With echoes of soy sauce and garlic and that braised-jellylike texture found in hawker stalls everywhere! More Asian than a clique of food bloggers!

And Spaghetti Chitarra tastes disturbingly similar to Hokkien Mee! Even the prawns are boiled to juicy-popping texture and spaghetti has same thickness as Asian equivalent! This restaurant is taking undercover fusion to the next level! Except Hokkien Mee doesn’t usually use vintage olive oil. And is a lot cheaper. Imagine fusion cuisine which combines Western cooking and Asian prices. Best thing since dictation test?

Don’t usually watch Masterchef due to electromagnetic interference but saw one episode where contestants cooked “congee” which was basically risotto. This risotto is also basically risotto. Tastes pretty good too, kind of like Mac-n-Cheese with extra meat (not substantial) and price hike (substantial). Pretty filling, which beats just being pretty.

Final thoughts? Fine fare, warming but not always especially filling. But price premium for the amounts of chiaroscuro lighting and deep nuances to the shadows. Why install proper lights when you can give out fancy mushroom-lights which cast beams at odd artistic angles which hit everything but the menu you wish to peruse? Makes for a happy Shooter, though. For a ninja team we take uncharacteristic joy in lighting up our surrounds. Perhaps it’s genetic.

Pendolino

Location: Strand Arcade Level 3, 412-414 George St Sydney NSW 2000

Taste-type: Italian

Price: Entrées around $20-25; Mains $34-39

How to get there: Train or bus to George St, then head to the top floor at the Strand Arcade. Pendolino is at one end of the building.

Contact: 02-92316117

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http://theninjareview.com/2010/07/the-birthday-present-pt-2-the-perfect-gift/

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